ER
IT’S probably fair to say that without mining the town of Sawahlunto would be history. It would also be fair to further say, without this history this same small town would literally be history. As is true of mining towns the world over, once the mineral runs out the place will wither away and perish.
Fortunately Sawahlunto, in West Sumatera province of Indonesia, was able to buck this trend and reinvent itself into a thriving heritage tourism destination. But it had to endure a dark history and a near-bankruptcy first.
Established by the Dutch colonial government in 1888, Sawahlunto was home to the Ombilin mines that sat atop one of the largest coal deposits in the region if not the world. The proven reserves of these mines exceeded 150 years worth of production.
In the begining the Dutch mining concern tasked with exploiting the mines sourced slave labour for the bulk of its workforce. They rounded up thousands of hardened convicts from all over the colony, now Indonesia, and shipped them to camps in Sawahlunto.
Grim tales of this practice spread. Everyday at dawn these convicts would be force-marched miles to the mines while being foot-chained to each other. Failure to walk in unison would result in chaos for these chained-workers as hails of whiplashes would be meted out by pitiless guards minding them until their return at dusk.
A whole set of infrastructure was built by the Dutch to support the coal mines. Aside from the town a railroad was built from the harbor at the capital of Padang to transport prisoners, logistics, and foodstuffs to a newly constructed train station in Sawahlunto. A huge kitchen the size of a town hall capable of cooking 6000 meals per serving was built. It is located near the administrative hub at the town center.
The kitchen served the mine workers as well as patients from hospitals. With such an efficient network and dirt-cheap labour at its disposal it’s no wonder the Sawahlunto mines became a leading producer of coal in the region during the Dutch era.
When the Indonesian government took over Sawahlunto after gaining independence in 1945 the mines’ competitiveness were severely diminished. Indonesia could not in utilize prison-labour like the Dutch as its struggle for independence was premised on the idea that human exploitation was to be abhored.
The downside: labour cost for operating the mines rose markedly. Fortunately coal was in such high demand that Sawahlunto’s mining operations remained profitable and workers content. Mining activities continued to expand albeit at a modest pace.
This trend kept on during most of Indonesia’s post independence history. That is until the late ‘90s when coal suddenly became a “dirty” word. The world yearned for cleaner, cheaper, and friendlier energy. Demand for the black and grimy ore that is coal decreased immensely.
Not only Indonesia but all over the world coal-producing countries became fatalities of a dying industry.
Sawahlunto practically declared itself bankrupt in 2002. At that time coal production dropped 90%, from one million tons annualy to just 100,000 tons, while costs spiralled up due to economic turbulence in Asia.
Meantime the central government had to clamp down on regional disbursements as its own annual budget was severely constrained. The town’s biggest employer, PT Bukit Asam, had to slash 700 people out of 1300 employees it used to work the coal mines.
It was at this time that the municipal leadership realized Sawahlunto’s salvation was not in mining. Coal mining as had been practiced in Sawahlunto for a hundred years was but finished. A new vision was needed in order for the town to survive. Inspired by the success of some regions in Indonesia like Bali and Yogya, the mayor of Sawahlunto seized on tourism as a possible solution.
The vision: to find a replacement for mining as a new revenue source. Tourism didn’t require huge capital to start, is a good job creator, is community based, and is sustainable and environmentally friendly.
Thus the mission of Sawahlunto as a tourism destination was born, specifically presenting its history and traditional culture as the main appeal. Accordingly the local government drafted policies, plans, and regulations to support this effort that impacted a lot of Sawahlunto’s town zoning rules, traffic flow, building codes and the town’s expansion (tourism-oriented development objectives).
Sawahlunto with its 40,000 inhabitants was divided into three zones: north, south, and town-center. The north part is where the open pit coal mines have been reclaimed and revegetated. Now the 400 hectares of land hosts a forest park, safari garden, two theme parks, two lakes, a motocross circuit, a housing estate, and a crocodile farm.
The south part houses the gateway into town from the Trans-Sumatra highway. This is where the local eateries are concentrated. These restaurants, cafes, diners and food stalls are purposely situated there to avoid congestion in the city center during peak hours.
The town center is where all the buildings built by the Dutch over a hundred years ago are located. Most are well preserved with many displayed as museums, heritage sites, or city landmarks. There are over a dozen museums in Sawahlunto (six run by the township); the most amongst small towns in Indonesia. These museums and other attractions are a source of employment for the people. Also the many lodgings (home stays and modest hotels) situated in designated parts of town and mostly run by small businesses.
The distinctive feature of Sawahlunto’s museums are: they don’t store treasures symbolizing the greatness of kingdoms or dynasties. Instead these museums display common items in the everyday lives of regular people. The aim is not to awe visitors but to make them understand the challenges faced by most of Sawahlunto’s populace at that time. The huge kitchen capable of 18,000 meals a day, for example, was made into a “Museum Goedang Ransum” (warehouse of meal rations). It has become a favorite with visitors – antiquated, over-sized cooking pots-n-pans and all.
A most poignat impression of a daily experience can perhaps be had at the “Mbah (Grandpa) Soero Mini Tunnel” in the center of Sawahlunto. The centerpiece of this museum is the entrance tunnel to an actual working mine that was turned into an exhibit in 2007. It descends 200 meters into the dark earth; a hot, damp, and fetid experience for visitors despite the newly installed lighting, ventilation, and safety features. Twenty minutes into this wet and stuffy route can feel like many years caged in a deep cave. Imagine having to work in the mines for 20 years as the convicts did under the Dutch.
Despite such reminders Sawahlunto is surprisingly visited by many Dutch tourist. Most of course are family of the deceased whose remains lie in the Dutch Graveyard outside the town. Other visitors include workers, students, and professionals of mining and mine engineering who join the seminars, workshops, and training that Sawahlunto often hosts.
(What better setting than an ex-mining town with a still operating mine to practice in?) Sawahlunto realizes that its past has also become its salvation for the future, as a historical destination of choice. Bright prospects await this town. [Indrasto Soejarman/Edhie Rianto/photo special]
